Cheese by Jordan Mackay
Italy is said to have the world's greatest variety of cheeses, which may surprise Francophiles who can't imagine hors d'oeuvres without brie or a decadent meal unfollowed by Roquefort and port wine. While Italy may trounce France in cheese types (estimated score: 2500 to 1500) - and with all due respect to Italian icons like Taleggio, Gorgonzola, and Robiola - Italy's real cheese flex is in the pantry. No other country can claim to produce cheeses that can and will serve almost every dish imaginable. Of course, we're talking about Parmigiano Reggiano and, to a lesser extent, its frequent companion, Pecorino.
Parmigiano Reggiano
Let’s talk Parm, aka Parmesan, aka Parmigiano Reggiano. The latter formal name invokes the cheese's two main areas of production, Parma and Reggio Emilia, both in the region of Emilia-Romagna. Parm's production zone is a protected denomination of origin (PDO), meaning no other cheese can bear this name in Europe or Italy. Sadly, this is not true stateside, so don't confuse the real stuff for Kraft.
With a celebrated history dating back at least a thousand years, Parmesan cheese is made from the milk of cows fed on grass or hay in this lush, fertile region. With the only addition to its production being salt, the cheese is aged in big rounds - topping nine inches high, 18 inches in diameter, and sometimes weighing over 80 pounds. After 12 months of aging, the rind, the naturally hardened exterior of the cheese, is branded with the official seal when each wheel passes rigorous inspection by the governing Consorzio.
Twelve months is just when the inspection begins; practically all the Parmigiano you find and consume in the U.S. is at least 18 months old, making for a tender, fruity style. As it ages, though - towards 24, 36, 40, and even 50 months - the flavors grow nuttier and savory, the texture becomes crumbly and dry, and more crystals form. These morsels are crystallized amino acids that form as enzymes transform the proteins of the cheese. These crystals add to the savory taste and the irresistible crunch in aged Parm. Even better, by this time, the cheese is free of (or so low in) lactose that it's edible for even the lactose intolerant.
Parmigiano Reggiano has been called the King of Cheeses, and we won't argue. No other cheese is as long-lasting and as versatile. When grated, of course, it makes every pasta better (except those with seafood, though some people dispute this old dictum). It can also be melted into a cheesy pasta sauce, as with some cacio e pepe and carbonara versions. A dusting atop pizza and lasagna is always welcome. But it doesn't end there. Of course, it shaves beautifully into most salads and, famously, is emulsified into Caesar salad dressing. It plays well with fruits and vegetables and willingly dissolves into soufflés, creams, and custards. And don't throw away those rinds. They're too harsh to eat, but add a warm signature and umami to any broth or sauce in which they're steeped (see the recipe for White Truffle Risotto in the Piemonte chapter).
Let's not forget that it's also one of the most fabulous cheeses to eat solo and goes beautifully with most wines, especially white wine and especially Chardonnay. It also pairs famously with sherry, Madeira, and Champagne (whose bubbles are an excellent textural accompaniment to Parm's crystals).
For Italian chefs and all chefs, Parmesan cheese is a non-negotiable pantry staple. Just don't confuse the real stuff with knockoffs, which can legally be called Parmesan outside of the EU but most certainly are not.
Pecorino
Pecorino, while often conflated with Parmesan, is entirely different, but for the fact that it's a hard cheese. First, it's made from sheep's milk. Indeed, pecorino means "little sheep" in Italian, and the term holds for the entire category. While there are PDOs for specific types of pecorinos - Pecorino Romano, Pecorino Toscana, and Pecorino Sardo - Pecorino can come in many forms. Of course, the form likely to live in your pantry is the salty, tangy, crumbly cheese of Pecorino Romano, which, as its name suggests, is the cheese of Rome. As such, this Pecorino is the cheese you want for cacio e pepe and makes a lovely carbonara. However, Pecorino's saltiness can be intense, so many chefs cut it with some Parm in the Roman dishes. But Pecorino is also great to shave over salads and vegetable dishes for an added zesty bite.